went back and applied some more highlights to the coat and shaded the bottom and inner area of the cuffs and added some brighter red highlights to the heart and the scarf.
I not sure about adding running blood effects over his hand these guys seem abit cartoony..i think gore effects might be to much..not sure tho
as well I tried shading and highlighting the magnifying glass abit and the shoe. Overall I think he's pretty much done unless something stands out to anyone that it needs more work.
oh I've never attached a figure to a base like this after painting..should I seal it with a gloss cote before basing..or just glue it down and then seal the whole thing?
“I have seen the dark universe yawning Where the black planets roll without aim, Where they roll in their horror unheeded, Without knowledge, or luster, or name.”
Sunday, 20 October 2013
zombie holmes continued
went back and applied another layer of midtone then added a little linen white to the mix and applied a slight highlight to alot of the edges.
i think i need to thin it down abit more and do some more broader highlighting ..but I don't want to overwhelm the midtones like i did on bertoks flesh
i think i need to thin it down abit more and do some more broader highlighting ..but I don't want to overwhelm the midtones like i did on bertoks flesh
Saturday, 19 October 2013
experimented with trying to create a rounded glass effect for the magnifying glass.its a little rough but It might work.
I used a 1:1 ratio of fair skin and olive green for the flesh hightlights..Its pretty bright and pallid looking not sure if the skin needs any more.
mixed in 2 drops of blackened brown with 1 drop of olive green and one drop of tanned shadow with 8 drops of water to create the trenchcoat shading wash . then used just the midtown blend to try and bring back the mid tones. It might need another thinned coat of midtone before highlights but I like the shadow color
Welp here he is so far.
I used a 1:1 ratio of fair skin and olive green for the flesh hightlights..Its pretty bright and pallid looking not sure if the skin needs any more.
mixed in 2 drops of blackened brown with 1 drop of olive green and one drop of tanned shadow with 8 drops of water to create the trenchcoat shading wash . then used just the midtown blend to try and bring back the mid tones. It might need another thinned coat of midtone before highlights but I like the shadow color
Welp here he is so far.
zombie holmes continues
so heres Holmes fully basecoated I ended up using a blend of tanned shadow and olive green for the overcoat.
I think i'm gonna try and use the same shading technique as used on Tsuko's pants from the LTPK #2 then build back to the mid tones since this seems like a nice mid tone color.
for the magnifying glass I'm gonna try and use a cool blue wash and shade the upper section gradually from ghost white then maybe a pure white line arcing along the left edge..
I love that he's missing a shoe tho it might be obvious from this angle
I think i'm gonna try and use the same shading technique as used on Tsuko's pants from the LTPK #2 then build back to the mid tones since this seems like a nice mid tone color.
for the magnifying glass I'm gonna try and use a cool blue wash and shade the upper section gradually from ghost white then maybe a pure white line arcing along the left edge..
I love that he's missing a shoe tho it might be obvious from this angle
Friday, 18 October 2013
Empire of the Dead Kickstarter arrives
empire of the dead has arrived and I got an itch to try and paint up zombie sherlock and watson.
Its oct gotta do it :)
got them pinned and primed and started dark basecoat color of flesh on Holmes.
gonna build up some highlights after with some olive green mixed with fair skin..see how that turns out.
for the eyes I figured I'd just invert the colors..leave the socket black and do a white/green dot.
I think its ok..I can't imaging trying to add a pupil to that
Its oct gotta do it :)
got them pinned and primed and started dark basecoat color of flesh on Holmes.
gonna build up some highlights after with some olive green mixed with fair skin..see how that turns out.
for the eyes I figured I'd just invert the colors..leave the socket black and do a white/green dot.
I think its ok..I can't imaging trying to add a pupil to that
Monday, 14 October 2013
dain basecoating almost done
so got the rest of the basecoat applied to everything. Along the way i found out the mix of colors I used for the beard shadow color is virtually the same as ruddy leather..which is the basecoat color for the gold trim.(2 drops marigold yellow and 1 drop mahogany brown)so right now..it looks really brown.
i think i'll apply a layer of ancient gold before starting the detail layering. but ran out of time today.
im not sure about the flatten brush technique for the chain mail..it worked ok on the metal but didn't' work that great on the bones..just showed alot of surface defects and the shallower divots were much harder to not fill in..i think for chain on bones in the future it would work better just painting up the chain with honed steel with highlights and using a wash over it to shade the links.
It is much neater then drybrushing tho.
welp progress so far..
i think i'll apply a layer of ancient gold before starting the detail layering. but ran out of time today.
im not sure about the flatten brush technique for the chain mail..it worked ok on the metal but didn't' work that great on the bones..just showed alot of surface defects and the shallower divots were much harder to not fill in..i think for chain on bones in the future it would work better just painting up the chain with honed steel with highlights and using a wash over it to shade the links.
It is much neater then drybrushing tho.
welp progress so far..
Saturday, 12 October 2013
dain continues
I made some more progress on basecoating the Dain.
I used a blend of 2 parts marigold yellow to 1 part mahogany brown for the beard and eyebrows.
dusty skin for the basecoat of the fur and tanned skin for the basecoat of the horns. as well i used ultramarine shadow as basecoat color for the cloth pieces.
i did most of the base drybrush work trying for a crumbly granite dustly color.
I think i'll switch back to working on the steel layering next.
with the bones figure primed i don't mind painting it..tho i can tell a difference around the edges of things when painting..its the biggest difference..where with the metal the edges are sharper/deeper i find thinned paint will almost slightly flow to the edge of the metal and stop. Im noticing i can't rely on that effect with the bones to help keep my edges crisp..it could be just less definition..i notice this trying to paint the mustache under the nose especially..not a showstopper but its worth noting
bit messy looking but its just roughing out at this point..painting around and under the shield is definately not easy If i was going to start again id leave the metal shield on the sprew and just use a sculpting tool to pry off the glued in shield arm and paint it separately.
I used a blend of 2 parts marigold yellow to 1 part mahogany brown for the beard and eyebrows.
dusty skin for the basecoat of the fur and tanned skin for the basecoat of the horns. as well i used ultramarine shadow as basecoat color for the cloth pieces.
i did most of the base drybrush work trying for a crumbly granite dustly color.
I think i'll switch back to working on the steel layering next.
with the bones figure primed i don't mind painting it..tho i can tell a difference around the edges of things when painting..its the biggest difference..where with the metal the edges are sharper/deeper i find thinned paint will almost slightly flow to the edge of the metal and stop. Im noticing i can't rely on that effect with the bones to help keep my edges crisp..it could be just less definition..i notice this trying to paint the mustache under the nose especially..not a showstopper but its worth noting
bit messy looking but its just roughing out at this point..painting around and under the shield is definately not easy If i was going to start again id leave the metal shield on the sprew and just use a sculpting tool to pry off the glued in shield arm and paint it separately.
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